In With the New
Getting a New Tank Style Water Heater
So, it’s time to say goodbye to old faithful and get a new water heater. There are many steps involved with installing a new tank style unit. But don’t fret. We’ve got step-by-step instructions below for both gas and electric heaters. You should only attempt to do this if you have experience with gas and water lines. Contact our office if you need a new tank water heater in the Austin, West Lake, Cedar Park, or San Antonio areas.
How to Install a Gas Tank Style Water Heater
We understand that installing or replacing water heaters can be very costly. It’s possible to install your own unit, but we must caution you. You should only do this if you are very familiar with working with gas lines, water lines, and electrical. If your tank style water heater is installed improperly, you could be left with extreme damage. Improper gas lines can result in explosions, improper gas venting can result in dangerous carbon dioxide leaking into your home, and poorly installed water lines can leave you with harmful water damage.
If you are thinking of a DIY install, it’s important to know the details of your insurance. Some insurance providers will not cover damage to your home unless your tankless water heater was installed by a licensed professional.
If you are confident in your abilities and have double checked with your insurance, the steps below will walk you through how to install your unit.
Installation Steps:
Make sure you pull any required state or city permits for installing or replacing a water heater. Each city is different, and may require fees to pull a permit. If this seems overwhelming, call a license plumber like Reliant Plumbing! Whether you are in Austin, San Antonio, Westlake, Cedar Park or Round Rock, we can repair or replace hybrid water heaters.
It has helpful information for when you purchase a new unit, like energy specifications and size.
- Shut all doors and windows.
- Turn on all exhaust fans and gas appliances.
- Turn up the tank temperature for a few minutes.
- Hold a just-extinguished match near the vent hood.
- The hood should pull in the smoke. If the smoke blows back toward you, you have a venting issue and should call an expert for repairs.
Use a pressure gauge on your outdoor spigot to check your home’s water pressure. The ideal range is 50 to 60 psi.
- If the reading is higher than 80 psi, use the pressure-reducing valve installed after the main water shutoff to lower it.
- You should consider getting an inline pressure gauge and a thermal expansion tank. An expansion tank helps get rid of excess pressure in the lines.
- You can use push-fit fittings to easily install an expansion tank.They easily slide under the pipe without the need for soldering.
- The expansion tank pressure should match the main water pressure. You can depress the valve to lower it, or use a hand air pump to increase it.
- Turn off the gas, and disconnect the gas pipe from the control valve with a wrench.
- Detach the venting.
- Open a faucet on the hot water side. Let the water run until it’s cool.
- Turn off the cold water supply.
- Connect a garden hose to the drain valve.
- Empty the tank into a drain or buckets after you open the valve.
- To drain the tank faster, open a hot water faucet.
- After the tank has emptied, remove the discharge pipe from the temperature and pressure relief valve (T&P relief valve).
- Disconnect your water supply pipes.
- If you must cut them, leave them as long as possible.
- Remove the old tank.
Place the new water heater in a drain pan & route it to a drain or the exterior of your home to avoid flooding.
When pressure and temperature are too high, this valve opens.
If you don’t have a floor drain, put a bucket underneath the discharge pipe. The pipe should be no more than 6 inches above the bucket.
You can easily connect the water with a flexible hose kit.
Check that your kit also has a gas hose.
- Put plumber’s tape on the threads of the heat trap nipples. Attach hoses.
- To reduce corrosion between two different metals, some areas may need dielectric fittings.
- Put plumber’s tape on the connector body threads.
- Securely connect the body threads to the hose.
- Hold the hose up to the pipe. There should be a little slack.
- Mark the pipe, and then cut it.
- Deburr the pipe.
- Slide the compression nut onto the pipe.
- Place the pipe into the fitting.
- Tighten the nut.
- Open the hot water side of the nearest faucet, after removing the aerator.
- Turn on the cold water supply at the water heater. Check for leaks around the water heater.
- If everything looks good, continue letting the tank fill. You can tell the tank is full when water runs from the faucet.
- Allow the water to run from the faucet for about 3 minutes to empty air from the tank.
Attach the existing venting to the new exhaust hood. If you do not have existing venting, you’ll need to vent your gas water heater through your roof. We recommend calling a licensed plumber for proper venting.
- Make sure the tank’s control knob is turned off.
- Wrap gas plumber’s tape around the threads of the fittings.
- Insert a flare nut into the control valve.
- Screw the other flare nut into the gas line.
- Connect the hose.
Turn on the gas supply. Check for leaks with leak detection solution.
- If you have a leak, the solution will bubble.
- If needed, tighten the connections.
To light the water heater pilot, turn the control knob to pilot and push the igniter button. When it’s lit, the light will blink.
The recommended temperature setting is 120 degrees Fahrenheit, but you may want it hotter or cooler depending on your personal preference. Test the temperature of the water at a faucet and then adjust the temperature on the thermostat.
Repeat the same vent test steps as above. If there’s a problem, call an expert to assess the issue.
After waiting a few hours, examine the discharge pipe.
- If the pipe drips, that usually indicates that the pressure is too high. Adjust the pressure to under 80 psi.
Sometimes faucets have reduced flow after replacing a water heater due to sediment trapped in the line. If this happens, just remove your aerator and flush out the sediment before replacing it.
How to Install an Electric Tank Style Water Heater
We understand that installing or replacing water heaters can be very costly. It’s possible to install your own unit, but we must caution you. You should only do this if you are very familiar with working with water lines and electrical. If your tank style water heater is installed improperly, you could be left with extreme damage.
If you are thinking of a DIY install, it’s important to know the details of your insurance. Some insurance providers will not cover damage to your home unless your tankless water heater was installed by a licensed professional.
If you are confident in your abilities and have double checked with your insurance, the steps below will walk you through how to install your unit.
If you are thinking of a DIY install, it’s important to know the details of your insurance. Some insurance providers will not cover damage to your home unless your tankless water heater was installed by a licensed professional.
If you are confident in your abilities and have double checked with your insurance, the steps below will walk you through how to install your unit.
Installation Steps:
Make sure you pull any required state or city permits for installing or replacing a water heater. Each city is different, and may require fees to pull a permit. If this seems overwhelming, call a license plumber like Reliant Plumbing! Whether you are in Austin, San Antonio, Westlake, Cedar Park or Round Rock, we can repair or replace hybrid water heaters.
It has helpful information for when you purchase a new unit, like energy specifications and size.
Use a pressure gauge on your outdoor spigot to check your home’s water pressure. The ideal range is 50 to 60 psi.
- If the reading is higher than 80 psi, use the pressure-reducing valve installed after the main water shutoff to lower it.
- You should consider getting an inline pressure gauge and a thermal expansion tank. An expansion tank helps get rid of excess pressure in the lines.
- You can use push-fit fittings to easily install an expansion tank.They easily slide under the pipe without the need for soldering.
- The expansion tank pressure should match the main water pressure. You can depress the valve to lower it, or use a hand air pump to increase it.
- Go to the circuit breaker, and turn off the electricity. Use a voltage detector to confirm that the power is off.
- With tape, mark how the wires are connected and then disconnect them.
- Turn on the hot water for a faucet. Run the water until it’s cool.
- Turn off the cold water supply. Connect a garden hose to the drain valve.
- Empty the tank into a drain or buckets after opening the drain valve. Turning on a hot water faucet can help drain the tank faster.
- After the tank has emptied, remove the discharge pipe from the temperature and pressure relief valve (T&P relief valve).
- Disconnect the water supply pipes. If you need to cut them, leave them as long as possible.
- Remove the old tank.
Place the new water heater in a drain pan & route it to a drain or the exterior of your home to avoid flooding.
When pressure and temperature are too high, this valve opens.
If you don’t have a floor drain, put a bucket underneath the discharge pipe. The pipe should be no more than 6 inches above the bucket.
You can easily connect the water with a flexible hose kit.
- Open the hot water side of the nearest faucet, after removing the aerator.
- Turn on the cold water supply at the water heater. Check for leaks around the water heater.
- If everything looks good, continue letting the tank fill. You can tell the tank is full when water runs from the faucet.
- Allow the water to run from the faucet for about 3 minutes to empty air from the tank.
Wait until the tank is completely full before connecting the wire. This helps avoid dry firing, which damages heating elements.
- Take off the junction box cover.
- Attach the ground wire to the green ground screw.
- Twist the wires together with wire connectors. Use the previous connections to guide you.
- Put the cover back on.
- Turn on the power. If you don’t have power, turn off the circuit breaker and check your connections.
The recommended temperature setting is 120 degrees Fahrenheit, but you may want it hotter or cooler depending on your personal preference. Test the temperature of the water at a faucet and then adjust the temperature on the thermostat. It might take several hours to initially heat the water.
After waiting a few hours, examine the discharge pipe.
- If the pipe drips, that usually indicates that the pressure is too high. Adjust the pressure to under 80 psi.
Sometimes faucets have reduced flow after replacing a water heater due to sediment trapped in the line. If this happens, just remove your aerator and flush out the sediment before replacing it.
Additional Resources
LEARN MORE ABOUT TANK STYLE WATER HEATERS
Preventative Maintenance for Your Tank Style Heater
Tank style water heaters have the shortest lifespan of all water heater types, but you can extend the life of your water heater with proper maintenance.
Tank Style Water Heater Sizing Guide
Before you start shopping for a new tank style water heater, you’ll need to determine what size tank you need. Learn how to identify what size will work best for your property.
Cost to Install or Replace Tank Style Water Heaters
Our master plumbers put together this page to help you understand the costs involved if you hire a licensed plumber for your project.
Common Tank Style Water Heater Problems
Learn about common tank style water heater problems and how to fix them. From leaking, to bad smells, to no hot water at all, some issues with your tank style water heater can be fixed easily.
Master Plumber's Guide to Tank Style Water Heaters
Explore essential tips, maintenance advice, and smart tech integration for tank-style water heaters.
Is it Time to Replace Your Hot Water Heater?
Your hot water heater is one of your hardest working appliances and it’s best to replace it before it stops functioning.